Photos credit: Natalie Emerson
At Chez Renée French Bistro in Milford, dining has the hospitable ease of being invited into someone’s French home. Friendly service, a dining room filled with personal touches and dishes whose flavors work beautifully together made our visit a pleasure.
We parked conveniently on the street in front of the restaurant, where a French flag hangs above the turquoise-and-white entrance. Inside, turquoise walls, gold-framed mirrors, small framed photographs and upholstered bench seating give the dining room its distinctive character. Flowers brighten the tables, while pleasant French music with jazzy, bluesy inflections complements the setting.
The restaurant was busy during our visit, but the service remained friendly and attentive. A repurposed wine bottle served as our water carafe and stayed on the table—a simple, practical touch that suited the homey atmosphere.
There is a family foundation to that hospitality. Owners Laurent and Cathy come from western France, where they previously operated a catering business. Laurent serves as executive chef, Cathy is the pastry chef, and their son Henri works alongside them as sous chef. Together, they bring their family’s cooking traditions to 233 Main Street in Old Milford.
Our Smoked Salmon Toast offered an especially memorable introduction to the kitchen. Toasty slices of baguette carried folds of smoked salmon over a creamy dill-and-lemon sauce, with capers and herbs adding flavor and color. Orange and lemon slices completed the presentation.
The salty capers and sweet orange were delightful with the salmon. Each contributed something distinct, yet the flavors harmonized beautifully. Alternating bites of salmon and capers with a taste of orange brought out the appeal of the combination. It was a particularly enjoyable example of the kitchen’s use of sweet and savory elements.
The Hot Brie continued that theme, pairing warm cheese with apple slices and grapes, accompanied by generously cut pieces of toasty baguette. Served in a small baking dish, the cheese and fruit made an appealing appetizer for sharing. The bread provided a welcome contrast to the warm cheese and a convenient way to enjoy the ingredients together.
A salad brought greens, tomatoes, slivered almonds and dried fruit, with dressing served separately. Its combination of colors and textures showed that even a smaller dish received attention.
For our main courses, I chose salmon, and my husband ordered chicken. My salmon arrived topped with a lemon wedge and scattered chives. Brussels sprouts accompanied the fish, with a small cup of sauce served alongside.
Those Brussels sprouts deserve particular mention. Subtly sweet and savory, with a browned, crisp edge, they were a memorable part of the meal in their own right. Their flavor complemented the salmon while giving me another reason to look forward to the next bite. Both entrées continued what we had enjoyed in the appetizers: distinctive flavors brought together with care.
Throughout the meal, that harmony was the kitchen’s most persuasive quality. Sweet fruit, salty capers, herbs and savory vegetables each had a role, and the combinations gave familiar ingredients fresh interest. With excellent service and the welcome of a French family’s dining room, Chez Renée made an evening in Milford something to savor.
