Chez Renée
Since my first Dining Out column several weeks ago, I’ve been looking forward to finally getting to Chez Renée. I’ve always had a weakness for a good French bistro — casual but refined cuisine, served with care and a sense of place. I tried to visit earlier, but owners Laurent and Cathy were away on their annual trip to France to see family.
Charcuterie
As it turned out, the wait was worth it. Chez Renée was everything I hoped for. Milford itself is a charming little community, and my wife and I arrived on a warm autumn afternoon, strolling the sidewalks and taking in the shops, restaurants and people. It’s the perfect setting for a bistro. Yet, as executive chef Laurent explained, it hasn’t always been this way. Celebrating their tenth year in business, Chez Renée was something of a trendsetter in Milford dining. It’s hard to imagine now, with bustling streets and restaurants in every direction, but Laurent and Cathy helped create the lively scene visitors enjoy today.
Stepping inside, I was immediately taken in by the unmistakably French feel of the dining room. From the teal walls to the photos and memorabilia, and the simple yet well-appointed tables and chairs, taking a seat felt like stepping into a different locale altogether.
Pumpkin Soup
As with any quality establishment, the owners are always present. When we chatted with Laurent, he told us without hesitation that he and Cathy are there for every meal. That’s why the restaurant closes briefly between lunch and dinner, and why the doors never open when they’re away. It’s their hands-on approach that gives Chez Renée its warmth and consistency.
Now, on to our experience. The wine list is short, thoughtful and well balanced. Most selections are French — a pleasant surprise in our California-dominated wine market — and several are varietals rarely seen by the glass. We began with a refreshing Muscadet, a dry, fruity, easy-drinking white wine perfect for appetizers, and followed it with a house Côtes du Rhône. Both were reasonably priced and welcome alternatives to the usual lineup of Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. I enjoy those, of course, but “variety is the spice of life,” and it was such a pleasure to see these classic French wines featured. The Côtes du Rhône was a textbook example: dry, not too tannic, approachable — an ideal dinner wine.
We started with a charcuterie plate offering a well-chosen array of items. One particularly thoughtful touch: it’s available in two sizes. The smaller portion was perfect for the two of us.
My wife was the bolder diner, ordering the Coque Brie — a vegetarian dish featuring brie, apples, almonds and honey. She paired it with the soup du jour, a seasonal pumpkin soup. Both were engaging, bistro-style dishes, ideal for a late lunch.
Croque Brie
As for me, I couldn’t resist one of my favorite classics: Moules Frites in a white wine sauce. The sauce was exactly what it should be — bright with garlic, shallots and parsley — just the right accent for the seafood.
Although this column serves to present restaurants to our readers, I must mention that I think my favorite aspect of Chez Renée was getting to Laurent and Cathy, such warm and naturally friendly people, unassuming and focused on making their restaurant as good as it can be.
Needless to say, we enjoyed a wonderful meal and look forward to returning soon for dinner, because Chez Renée is the kind of place where the taste lingers long after it’s gone.
