Cooking with ancient grains   

A land of wheat and barley, of vines and fig trees and pomegranates, a land of olive oil and honey… — Deuteronomy 8:8

Spend time around a Jewish table and you’ll likely notice a reverence for food that goes beyond flavor. The culinary traditions are steeped in symbolism, with many ingredients bearing the weight of history. Take the grains, for example.

In the Torah, grain is not just sustenance — it’s sacred. Wheat and barley offerings were brought to the Temple; Joseph’s grain silos sustained Egypt and beyond; and Psalm 65 paints valleys “covered with grain” as a sign of divine blessing.

While these grains are restricted during Passover, the rest of the year is open season. And a beautiful season it is — full of earthy soups, nutty baked goods and wholesome comfort food.

It’s easy to forget, in our age of instant meals and next-day delivery, that these humble grains once spelled the difference between feast and famine. To ancient communities, a good harvest meant survival. Every sheaf of wheat was a promise, every sack of barley a kind of insurance policy against the unknown. When we cook with these grains today, we’re reviving more than a recipe — we’re honoring resilience. There’s something quietly powerful about stirring barley into a pot of soup or watching dough rise with spelt flour. It reminds us that nourishment isn’t only physical. It’s emotional, spiritual and a way of linking ourselves to our lineage.

Barley: The humble grain with staying power

One of the earliest domesticated crops, barley, played a vital role in the rise of civilization in the Fertile Crescent — a boomerang-shaped region of the Middle East that includes parts of modern-day Israel. This fertile land, often called the “Cradle of Civilization,” is where agriculture, writing and the wheel first emerged. Thanks to its hardiness, nutritional value and versatility, barley thrived in the region’s rich soils, helping support the development of the world’s first settled human societies.

Oats: Once a weed, now a key ingredient

Oats were first seen as weeds in wheat fields. It wasn’t until farmers realized they could thrive in less fertile soils that they were cultivated. They are a breakfast staple today, but they’ve been around for millennia. Their role in Jewish cooking is less flashy but always comforting — and not just for breakfast anymore.

Spelt: The biblical flour

Spelt — an ancient cousin of modern wheat — is mentioned in Exodus and has found new life among health-conscious bakers. It brings a nutty, earthy flavor to bread and makes it more dense than bread made with wheat flour.

Rye: Bread with bite

This grain has deep roots. It’s hearty, slightly sour and totally satisfying. Whether you’re going classic with corned beef or modern with avocado and eggs, rye bread’s bold flavor makes it a strong foundation. Don’t forget the caraway seeds.

Wheat: The eternal staple

As a kid growing up in Kansas — where “amber waves of grain” are the heart of the culture and the economy — there was a saying I remember hearing: “Rice is nice, but wheat is neat!” Wheat is everywhere in Jewish cuisine — from challah to couscous, from knishes to kreplach. I devoted an entire column to challah not long ago, so… enough said.

Today, we celebrate the ancient grains of the Torah — wheat, barley, rye, oats and spelt — with a few modern recipes to bring them into your everyday kitchen. These grains are more than just ingredients. They’re echoes of harvests, offerings and survival in foreign lands. Cooking with them connects us to tradition in a tactile, nourishing way.

You’re not just making dinner — you’re feeding a story thousands of years old.

Wishing you hearty eating, from my kitchen to yours!

Please send feedback or suggestions to recipes@americanisraelite.com. 

Savory Oat Bake

photo: Makes 1 loaf

A no-knead recipe that produces a flavorful loaf with minimal effort. Best started the night before.

Ingredients

1 cup rye flour

2 cups all-purpose or bread flour

2 teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon caraway seeds

1 teaspoon instant yeast

1 1/2 cups warm water

In a large bowl, mix flours, salt, caraway seeds and yeast. Add warm water and stir until a shaggy dough forms.

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for 12–18 hours.

Turn dough onto a well-floured surface and fold it over on itself a few times.

Place on parchment paper and rest for 30–60 minutes.

Meanwhile, place a Dutch oven with lid in the oven and preheat to 450°F.

Carefully transfer the dough (on parchment) into the hot Dutch oven.

Bake covered for 30 minutes, then uncover and bake 15 minutes more, until the crust is deep golden brown.

Makes 8 squares

Think kugel, but with oats. It’s protein-packed and lunchbox-friendly.

Ingredients

2 cups grated carrot, zucchini and chopped red onion (mixed)

1 1/2 cups rolled oats

1 cup grated mature cheddar cheese

1/2 cup mixed nuts and seeds (whatever you have on hand – I used sunflower seeds, pine nuts, sesame seeds and sliced almonds)

1 teaspoon dried herbs (like sage or thyme)

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper 

3 eggs, beaten

4 tablespoons melted butter

Preheat oven to 350°F. Line an 8-inch square baking pan with parchment paper.

Grate the zucchini and carrot; finely chop the onion. Squeeze grated vegetables to remove excess liquid.

In a large bowl, combine the vegetables, oats, cheese, nuts, seeds, herbs, spices, salt and pepper.

Make a well in the center and pour in the beaten eggs and melted butter. Stir thoroughly to combine.

Spread the mixture into the prepared pan and press it down evenly.

Bake for 30–35 minutes, until golden brown and cooked through.

Let rest in the pan for 5 minutes before lifting out. Cut into squares. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Store in the fridge for up to 3 days or freeze for later.

Mushroom Barley Soup

Makes 8–10 servings

A hearty soup, great for chilly evenings or as a starter to a larger Shabbat meal.

Ingredients

1 cup barley, soaked for 1 hour in hot water

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 medium onions, peeled and roughly chopped

2 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into small cubes

2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped

3 stalks celery, roughly chopped

4 chicken wings or 2 turkey or chicken necks and heart (mix of giblets)

96 oz. (3 quarts) vegetable or chicken stock

3 carrots, peeled and shredded

1 1/2 cups mushrooms, sliced

1/4 cup dried porcini, soaked in a little hot water

2 tablespoons sherry or sweet red wine

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Parsley, for garnish

Be sure to soak the barley before you start.

Heat the vegetable oil in a deep saucepan. Sauté the onions, garlic, potatoes and celery for 5 minutes.

Add the giblets, stock and barley. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 30 minutes.

Add the mushrooms, carrots and porcini with the soaking liquid.

Continue to simmer for another 30 minutes. Remove the giblets. Add the sherry or Kiddush wine. Season with salt and pepper.

Garnish with parsley.

Spelt Pancakes

Makes 4 servings

These fluffy pancakes use 100% spelt flour for a whole-grain breakfast or brunch.

Ingredients

3/4 cup buttermilk*

1 large egg, beaten

1 tablespoon melted butter

1 cup spelt flour

1 teaspoon white sugar

1 teaspoon baking powder

3/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

*To make buttermilk substitute, combine 3/4 cup milk with 1 tablespoon lemon juice or white vinegar. Let sit for 5 minutes.

Stir the egg and melted butter into the buttermilk.

In a separate bowl, mix flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Add to the wet ingredients and stir until just combined (batter will be lumpy).

Heat a lightly greased griddle over medium-high heat.

Drop batter by large spoonfuls and cook 3–4 minutes, until bubbles form and edges look dry. Flip and cook another 1–2 minutes.

No-Knead Rye Bread

Makes 1 loaf

A no-knead recipe that produces a flavorful loaf with minimal effort. Best started the night before.

Ingredients

1 cup rye flour

2 cups all-purpose or bread flour

2 teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon caraway seeds

1 teaspoon instant yeast

1 1/2 cups warm water

In a large bowl, mix flours, salt, caraway seeds and yeast. Add warm water and stir until a shaggy dough forms.

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for 12–18 hours.

Turn dough onto a well-floured surface and fold it over on itself a few times.

Place on parchment paper and rest for 30–60 minutes.

Meanwhile, place a Dutch oven with lid in the oven and preheat to 450°F.

Carefully transfer the dough (on parchment) into the hot Dutch oven.

Bake covered for 30 minutes, then uncover and bake 15 minutes more, until the crust is deep golden brown.