Sugar n’ Spice on Reading Road has reopened after a stem-to-stern refurbishing of the existing structure, and the addition of more space, the buildout of which adds some 30 seats to the location. During an interview at the time of its closing in the spring of 2023, owner Adam Mayerson said that the exterior and grounds needed work due to the ravages of time, and that efficiencies could be gained inside as well. Hence the closing to do all that work, and to build out the addition on the south side of the structure.
This location, the original of three present-day Sugar n’ Spice diners, reopened about a month ago, and while there is a lot that is new and fresh about the eatery, the atmosphere of the place feels pleasantly the same as in prior days — just as Jewish diners-out remember. Newly installed GM James Zmrazek emphasized that he feels the continuity, even though he is new to the location. “It’s the sense of community that we have here, where people (diners-out) get together and start talking to the person next them. That’s missing today (in a lot of places where people gather), and you don’t see that much anymore,” he said, speaking of the Cheers-like ambiance of the place.
A signature plate of wispy-thin pancakes
To him, Sugar n’ Spice is more than a breakfast and lunch dining spot. “It’s a page out of history, where it’s the kind of place you don’t see anymore; the bright colors, the atmosphere, the food, it’s good old-fashioned food like your mother or your grandmother used to make.” To emphasize the point, Zmrazek drew attention to the pancakes and the syrup that goes on them. Both are scratch items made in the Sugar n’ Spice kitchen on a regular basis. The homemade approach takes more time and effort but doing things that way dates back to the founder, Mort Keller. He believed deeply in taking care in the kitchen to produce good, tasty, appealing dishes for his patrons. That principle of doing business remains a cornerstone of Sugar n’ Spice today and is one reason the restaurant has lasted more than 80 years, according to Mayerson.
So, what about the new features inside Sugar n’ Spice’ original location? For Jewish diners-out who are familiar with the old layout, that area is very similar to what it has been for decades. The counter is still in the same location, and the tables and booths are aligned as they had been. The entry is in the same place at the back of the building where the parking area is located. While the parking lot is likely no larger than it was before, the lot is newly paved and lined and looks to be larger. Inside, the addition is off the front right of the original structure.
A fluffy spinach omelet with English muffins
One of the efficiency changes made involves the kitchen and carryout orders. Turns out that while the restaurant world averages eight to ten percent carryout, the Reading Road location of Sugar n’ Spice is higher by a good bit, according to Zmrazek. “We can do from 15 to 20 percent in to-go orders, and so, we wanted that to be more efficient,” he said. In the kitchen, facilities have been added to handle the increased volume of more seats in the dining area, along with the higher number of carryout orders. Now it is possible to pick up carryout orders at a window inside the dining area, instead of at the counter. This window feature makes for less congestion around the counter, where patrons are dining, and where tabs are being paid at the register.
One new thing on the menu is the ice cream-based milkshake, and these shakes are deliciously refreshing. We tried one and did it hit the spot! The first thing we noted was that the creamy thick milk/ice cream shake was served with an over-sized straw. A pet peeve of mine, being an aficionado of shakes as I am, is that too often, the straw is undersized, and made of coated paper. The net result: try as one might, it is difficult to get the shake into the mouth via the straw, and the straw has an infuriating way of collapsing in the process. So, one winds up spooning the shake instead of drinking it. Not so at Sugar n’ Spice, since the straw is over-sized, and made of plastic; it does the job and holds its shape throughout. And the shake? It’s among the best I’ve ever had, and this is a milkshake kind of town, given its history of soda fountains and locations where ice cream shakes are mainstays on menus.
A new ice cream shake with chocolate syrup and whipped cream
The real mainstays on the Sugar n’ Spice menu are the fluffy omelets and the wispy-thin pancakes — in a word, breakfast. Most people who come to the diner end up ordering a breakfast meal, even if the clock on the wall says “time for lunch.” Just the way it is at Cincinnati’s most famous diner.
See you at the newly refurbished and larger Sugar n’ Spice on Reading Road!
