Sugar n’ Spice is nice 

I go to restaurants for two things. First, of course, is good food — especially the kind I can’t make as well at home, or dishes built on ingredients that are hard to find. Second, and almost as important, is service. We all love this, no matter what anyone says. 

Years ago, I did tableside cooking in a tuxedo at an upscale dining room in a Radisson Hotel. The Food & Beverage Director used to tell us that when people come through those doors, it should feel like fulfilling a fantasy. That stuck with me, and it’s one of the reasons I enjoy writing these Dining Out pieces. Restaurants don’t need to serve gourmet cuisine carved and flamed at your table, but when done well, they deliver experiences you simply can’t get in most places.

There’s another related element that can turn an ordinary meal into something genuinely memorable. It’s not just competent service — it’s warm, friendly people you’re happy to interact with. And that’s exactly what I experienced at Sugar n’ Spice on Sunday morning.

I was greeted by Assistant Manager Robin Becker, who didn’t realize the American Israelite publishes regular restaurant reviews. Nonetheless, she was delighted to have me and made my “work,” if it can be called that, wonderfully easy. We talked about menu favorites and a few details of the diner’s history, and then she introduced me to my server, Ben O’Toole, who had a smile as wide as the counter.

Keep in mind: this is a busy diner, bustling with Sunday morning customers, plates flying from the kitchen and staff darting everywhere. Yet Ben talked with me as though I were the only person in the room, and he lit up when I told him he’d be mentioned here. It felt less like placing an order and more like hanging out with a longtime friend.

I mention Robin and Ben because a classic diner like Sugar n’ Spice becomes something special when people like this are in the mix. I wasn’t grabbing a quick breakfast — I was visiting friends over a morning meal.

Of course, atmosphere only goes so far without good food, and Sugar n’ Spice delivered plenty of that too.

I tried two wonderful, somewhat unique dishes. First up was the Avocado Croissant with sunny-side-up eggs and hash browns. As you can see in the photo, it looked terrific coming through the kitchen window, and I couldn’t wait to dig in. The eggs were perfectly cooked, the avocado fresh and generously portioned, and the croissant provided a light but indulgent base. Meanwhile, the hash browns were exactly what hash browns ought to be — crispy on the outside, tender inside and cooked just right. Altogether, it made for a modern, satisfying diner breakfast.

Despite not having much of a sweet tooth — as I remind readers far too often — I simply had to try the Challah French Toast. If you’ve never had challah as the foundation for French toast, prepare yourself. If the avocado croissant bordered on decadent, this dish climbed right over the top, yet somehow wasn’t heavy or overly sweet. Challah is a superb choice for this preparation, and Sugar n’ Spice does it justice.

So if you’re looking for a great breakfast — morning or afternoon, since they serve it all day — stop by Sugar n’ Spice. See Robin and Ben, or any of the other friendly folks there. Because Sugar n’ Spice is the kind of place where the last bite lingers long after it’s gone.