In Cincinnati — and in most cities across the country — there are two evenings each year when dinner reservations are practically mandatory: New Year’s Eve and Valentine’s Day. Mother’s Day likely deserves a spot on that list as well, but for this account we’ll stay focused on romantic meals for two.
Responsible readers who oversee dinner plans understand the formula. Plan ahead. Choose a restaurant your partner loves. Secure the reservation. Present the evening as a fait accompli. The operative words, of course, are “plan ahead.”
This year, I sheepishly admit, I failed to follow this well-tested procedure. Instead of making the arrangements myself, I did the “generous, thoughtful” thing and asked my wife if she would like to go out on Valentine’s Day. When she replied that she would “let me know,” I immediately realized a decision would not be made until the last possible moment. And that is exactly what happened.
I don’t blame her. I was the one who neglected to plan ahead.
Needless to say, reservations across town were long gone by the time we tried. We ended up dining early at a quiet neighborhood standby we frequent often. We still had an enjoyable evening, and I promised to be more proactive next year.
But my minor debacle is not the subject of this review. The recovery plan is.
Since February 14th didn’t unfold as envisioned, I shifted our focus to brunch on February 15th. And what better place for an engaging, energetic morning meal than Sacred Beast in Over-the-Rhine?
Unlike Valentine’s Day dinner, I did secure reservations — which are absolutely necessary at Sacred Beast on weekends. Even with a reservation, you feel fortunate to be seated. Word is out: this is one of the city’s premier brunch destinations.
Before describing the meal, readers should know that Sacred Beast is not a quiet, sleepy breakfast nook. Music hums through the space, the atmosphere is lively, and the menu reflects a modern, inventive take on morning cuisine. Tables fill quickly with animated groups of friends and young professionals lingering over coffee and cocktails.
Now to the food.
This upscale diner offers a creative breakfast menu unlike any other in the city. The “Diner Breakfast” features lemon ricotta pancakes alongside soft scrambled eggs and other accompaniments. Bread Pudding French Toast arrives rich and indulgent, finished with maple butter and whipped cream. Other notable dishes include Neckbone Gravy with roasted chicken, hash browns, and a sunny-side-up egg; an Omelette with piquillo peppers and goat cheese; and, most enticing of all, the Corned Beef Hash.
Corned Beef Hash
As I have mentioned before, I have a weakness for corned beef hash — and my wife shares it — so ordering Sacred Beast’s version was inevitable.
Here, the corned beef and potatoes are cut into generous half-inch cubes, lightly seasoned and cooked together. The potatoes are present in greater proportion than in traditional versions, making the dish heartier and more balanced, less dominated by salt-forward beef and more about texture and comfort. It is a distinctive interpretation that works remarkably well.
Crowning the generous portion were two perfectly poached eggs, their yolks breaking smoothly into the crisped cubes below and tying the entire dish together.
All in all, brunch at Sacred Beast more than compensated for my earlier oversight. We left satisfied in the best possible way. If you enjoy Sacred Beast but have not yet visited for brunch, it is well worth the reservation. And if you ever fall short on a major holiday, take heart — redemption can be found over a memorable morning meal, because Sacred Beast is a place where the last taste lingers long after it’s gone.
