We all have favorites. Favorite chairs, favorite clothes, favorite wines — it’s a natural part of the human psyche, I believe. Without going off the deep end over my favorites, in the world of restaurants there are several reasons for choosing favorite places to eat. In my case, perhaps favoritism should be all about the food. But that is not nearly accurate. The quality and taste of the food is critically important. But it’s not the whole enchilada, so to say.
What goes into a favorite place to eat? In my view, great places to eat start with attitude — the attitude of the chef or the owner of the place. When you find a favorite restaurant, often you will find that the chef and the owner are one and the same person. These folks bring a certain moxie to the endeavor. My experience is that they bubble with enthusiasm over recipes they craft or borrow and enhance. They possess an observable connection to the food they prepare. They love it! They imbue it with the power to satisfy. They understand the ingredients with which they work and how to combine them to gain taste profiles that excite the human palate.
One might ask “Well, doesn’t every chef have similar attitudes?” Sadly, not all do. There is a difference between a calling and a job. That is not to say that someone who simply fills the job of chef cannot be good at the job, cannot produce tasty dishes that a diner will enjoy. For me, the chef who is all in, enthusiastic, eager for you to try this or that new entrée or side dish or what-have-you, that’s essential in the favorite-restaurant equation. They love what they are doing, and they show it.
One of those situations is at Sacred Beast, where Jeromy Lieb, owner/operator/chef prowls the kitchen creating tasty dishes for Jewish diners-out to enjoy. In my memory bank, perhaps the first interview with him, Lieb spoke of a new entrée on his menu (my memory cannot recall the entrée) and he said: “It will change your life, it’s that good.” One could easily see the passion, the confidence and the command of cuisine he possessed. And whatever that meal was, it was delicious.
Lieb has been cooking for nearly four decades. He met his wife when they both worked at the Maisonette, Cincinnati’s most memorable French restaurant. Among Lieb’s credentials are study of French cuisine in France, and stints working at Danielle’s and Boloud, both outstanding French restaurants in the Big Apple.
The Parisian-style gnocchi in marinara sauce
So, French trained, but with a twist. Before one assumes unending ingredient lists and stuffy sophistication that can come with French cooking, know that Lieb marches to a different drummer. He said this: “Simple food taken seriously, that’s what we do. French is the basis of the cuisine here, true, but it is a little more simple. So, what I like about Italian food is if you think about what they are making, you take out five steps, and that’s probably what they really did in Italy. So, we’re casual and laid back, but with great food that’s not nine million ingredients.”
What Lieb works at doing is combining the techniques of French cooking with the simplicity of ingredients and prep found in Italy. The results are deliciously tasty and innovative in my book.
The fried chicken schnitzel with tonnato sauce
What are some favorites in this favorite restaurant? In the appetizer section, try the fried truffle risotto balls, served with a marinara sauce. If you don’t like these, go have your taste buds checked. Something’s definitely wrong. Then move on to the entrée section, where you’ll find several favorites of mine. One is the chicken schnitzel (hold the parmesan cheese). The chicken is done in the German/Austrian style so that the pounded chicken breast is thin, breaded, and crispy. If you are a fan of schnitzel, I’m betting you will love this dish. There’s more. Another favorite of mine is the blackened mahi Reuben sandwich, piled with kraut, overlaid with broiler melted Swiss cheese and some house-made 1000-island dressing, on hearty rye bread. What a tasty combo! In the mood for Italian? Then try a French dish that sounds more Italian: Parisan gnocchi in Italian marinara sauce, served with fresh basil and mozzarella cheese. It’s one of my go-to dishes — delicious. Then again, if you are looking for a taste treat on the spicy side, the dish for you is the chili crunch chicken. It’s made with house-made chili crunch breading, and it offers a taste profile that brings a little heat and is scrumptious.
The chili crunch chicken entrée
Alas, there is plenty more to try on this eclectic menu, but we’ll save it for another day.
See you at Sacred Beast!
