With Passover arriving in a few weeks, that means it’s time for spring cleaning. Maybe you used some of my suggestions from last month to reduce items in your pantry before the cleaning begins. It’s also a good time to clean out your spice cabinet and replace the old with the new. (Here’s a tip: buy your own small jars and purchase smaller quantities so they are fresher. Colonel De’s at Findlay Market is one of my go-to places to buy small quantities.) Be sure to clean out condiments in your fridge, too. Regardless of your cleaning plans, I’m sure many of you are thinking about what you’ll be serving or bringing to this year’s Seder.
Many of us prefer that our Seder resembles as closely as possible the ones we remember from our parents’ or grandparents’ homes. Passover traditions can be a meaningful way to feel connected to past generations. Conversely, some of us like to update things a bit and make the observance feel more “our own” or more in touch with the times in which we live. Perhaps you add items to your table as a way to recognize significant events or ideals that are important to you. For example, an orange on the Seder plate can be used to represent acceptance of the LGBTQ community, as well as the importance of women in Judaism (and I have a recipe below related to this). You may adjust the meal or Seder plate out of respect for vegetarian or vegan guests. Passover is a holiday of asking questions and adding new or different items can spark some great conversation during your meal. Whichever way you observe the holiday — traditionally or more modernized — the hope is that your holiday will be meaningful to you, your family and your guests. To quote Rabbi Nathan Weiner of Marlton, New Jersey’s Congregation Beth Tikvah: “I’m all for whatever it takes to make the seder deeply relevant and personal to the people who are experiencing it.”
I do enjoy the fact that I can count on certain dishes as part of the Passover celebration. There is great comfort in that predictability, particularly if there is something you especially enjoy but never eat during the rest of the year. (Charoset is a favorite of mine.) But sometimes I like to put a spin on the traditional and see how friends and family like a slightly different take on a dish. Or, if I think the crowd is willing, I’ll make something we’ve never had before. When I’m trying to be creative about what to prepare for a holiday, often I find inspiration looking at the differences between traditional Ashkenazi and Sephardic dishes. For example, with Cincinnati being an area of the country populated mostly by Jews with Eastern European ancestry, lamb is not a dish most are used to having at Passover, even though lamb is part of the Passover story. But with the world becoming such a diverse place as we move around the globe much more than previous generations, surely our Sephardic counterparts are now a greater presence in our community. Sephardim traditionally do eat lamb for Passover. Why the difference? I found a simple explanation on the website of the Jewish Federation of the Berkshires — “Ashkenazim do not eat lamb at the Seder meal. Why? Because they believe that doing so is equivalent to eating the paschal sacrifice that was intended to be made only at the Temple in Jerusalem.” Now, here’s the flip side of the coin: According to the Sephardi interpretation, lamb is integral to the Seder. As Rabbi Batshir Torchio explains, Sephardim “are re-enacting that last evening before the Jews left Egypt and are literally ingesting the narrative of the Exodus from Egypt toward becoming a nation.”
If you’re not comfortable with lamb for Passover, that’s understandable. But if you feel rules are meant to bend and you want to give it a try, I’m sharing a recipe created decades ago by my mother, Charlotte. Mom’s recipe was meant for a leg of lamb, but if you want a kosher cut, try using a shoulder. Shoulder will require a longer cooking time at a lower temperature, so I’ve included some adjustments in the recipe. You may raise an eyebrow when you see coffee as an ingredient in the sauce, but trust me, it gives the dish its rich, delicious flavor.
The one-pan “Tzimmes Chicken with Apricots, Prunes, and Carrots” is not only a time-saver, but it also delivers a nice balance of sweet and savory flavors. The dried fruits, chicken, and honey combine in a dish that is sure to become a new favorite. Plus, the simplicity of the sheet pan method makes it a practical option for anyone looking to streamline their holiday preparations without sacrificing taste. This dish brings flavor to the table with a nod to the sweet, symbolic foods that are part of the Passover tradition, and can easily be increased if you need more than 8 servings
The recipe for “Sweet Potato Soufflé in Orange Cups” is very similar to a dish our friend Sarah brought to our Seder several years ago. According to Sarah, “I originally found the recipe for this when I worked at HUC and had Passover with one of the rabbinical students. She had taught me about the story that went something along the lines of, “[before women were ordained, a male rabbi said] having an orange on the Seder plate is akin to having a woman be a rabbi.” So of course, I wanted to celebrate oranges being on the Seder plate and all the women who have been ordained. To me, the orange is a symbol of revised thinking and welcoming new traditions.” Even if you don’t add an orange to your Seder plate, this delicious dish is worth a try.
Of course, no meal is complete without dessert. I’ve included a dessert suggestion that is quick, easy, and small. After a big meal, perhaps something smaller may appeal to you. This may even be one your kids can help make.
As you prepare for Passover, whether you choose to honor your cherished family traditions or experiment with new ideas, the essence of the holiday remains the same: connection to the past, the present, and one another. Passover is a time to reflect, ask questions, and make the holiday meaningful in ways that resonate with who we are today. “Perhaps the warmth we feel toward Passover comes from its being celebrated among family and friends, usually in the home instead of the synagogue. The Seder table itself has become a symbol of strength and continuity for the Jewish people. As we gather around the Seder table, we celebrate our relationship with one another and with Jews throughout the ages.” — from The Seder Haggadah, Congregation Beth Adam, Loveland, Ohio.
Chag Sameach, from my kitchen to yours!
Sweet Potato Soufflé in Orange Cups – 8 servings
Ingredients
2 medium sweet potatoes
1 large egg
3 Tbsp unsalted butter (or margarine)
1/4 C milk (or non-dairy milk)
1/3 C granulated sugar
2 Tbsp orange juice, fresh squeezed
1/4 tsp vanilla extract
4 oranges
Directions
Candied pecans or 1/4 C brown sugar for topping
Peel the sweet potatoes and cut each into three or four pieces. Place the potatoes in a small pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to maintain a simmer and cook until fork tender, 15–20 minutes.
Preheat oven to 350°F.
In a small bowl, whisk together the milk and egg. Set aside.
Cut the oranges in half and scoop out the pulp and juice. (try using a grapefruit spoon or serrated knife to cut around the edges.) Reserve 2 Tbsp of the orange juice to add to the potatoes. Slice off a tiny portion of the bottom of each orange half to help it sit flat without tipping over. Place the orange halves on a parchment lined baking sheet.
Drain the cooked sweet potatoes. Off heat, put 3 Tbsp of butter or margarine in the still hot pan and cover with the drained potatoes. Add the vanilla, sugar, orange juice and the milk/egg mixture. Using a hand mixer beat on low until blended. Divide the mixture between the 8 orange halves (use a piping bag with an open star tip if you want it to look like it was made by a professional.) You may have a little left over and if so, scoop out an extra orange to fill or use a ramekin coated with cooking spray and bake with the oranges. Sprinkle the top of each with about a teaspoon of brown sugar.
Bake at 350°F for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and top with a candied pecan or two, if using. Serve warm or room temperature.
“Tzimmes” Chicken With Apricots, Prunes, and Carrots — serves 8 (recipe from Epicurious)
Ingredients
2 whole chickens (about 4 pounds), broken down into 8 pieces, wings and backbones reserved for another use
4 tsp kosher salt, divided
1/2 C plus 2 Tbsp honey
1/2 C olive oil
1/2 C fresh lemon juice
2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground cumin
1/4 tsp cayenne
2 pounds carrots, preferably young carrots with greens attached, halved lengthwise or quartered if large
1 large red onion, cut into 1/2-inch wedges
12 garlic cloves, peeled
8 oz dried apricots (about
1 1/2 C)
8 oz dried prunes (about
1 1/2 C)
20 sprigs thyme
1 1/2 C dry white wine
Optional parsley leaves for garnish
Directions
Arrange racks in top and lower thirds of oven; preheat to 400°F. Season chicken pieces with 2 teaspoons salt.
Whisk honey, oil, lemon juice, pepper, cinnamon, cumin, cayenne, and remaining 2 tsp salt in a large bowl. Add chicken pieces, carrots, onion, garlic, apricots, prunes, and thyme and toss to combine. Divide everything but chicken between 2 rimmed baking sheets. Stir wine and ½ C water in a 2-cup measuring cup, then pour half over each sheet.
Cover sheets tightly with foil. Roast 15 minutes, then remove from oven. Remove foil, divide chicken between sheets, and continue to roast, rotating sheets top to bottom halfway through, until carrots are fork-tender, chicken is golden brown, and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of a breast registers 165°F, 30–35 minutes (if some pieces of chicken are finished before others, transfer them to a serving platter).
Transfer chicken mixture to serving platter. Pour pan juices over. Top with carrot greens or parsley before serving.
Sephardic Charoset Truffles – makes 25
(Under 100 calories each, these make a good snack, too.)
Ingredients
1 1/2 C pitted dates
1 1/2 C dried apricots
1/2 C golden raisins
3/4 C shelled pistachios
2 Tbsp honey (or date syrup or agave)
1/4 C sugar
1 tsp cinnamon
Directions
Place dates, apricots, raisins, pistachios and honey and place in a food processor.
Pulse for about 2 minutes until the mixture is smooth but still has texture. You may need to break up the sticky mixture a few times if it collects in a ball in the processor.
In a bowl, mix the sugar and the cinnamon. Form mixture into balls that are about 3/4 inch in diameter. The balls will be sticky and soft. It will be easier to shape them if you wet your hands slightly.
Dry your hands. Dip the balls in the cinnamon sugar and coat thoroughly, and re-roll between your palms to smooth out any rough edges. Serve at room temperature.
Roast Leg of Lamb
(This recipe is meant for a leg of lamb, but if you’re not comfortable with that cut, try a bone-in shoulder. Shoulder will not carve well, so just pull the meat off the bone before serving.)
Ingredients
5-7 lbs lamb
2 Tbsp olive oil
1 Tbsp dried basil
1 Tbsp dried thyme
6 garlic cloves, halved
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
For the Sauce:
1 C very strong coffee, cold
1/3 C cherry jelly (not preserves)
1 Tbsp flour
Salt and pepper to taste
Directions
Cut 12 one-inch slits, evenly spaced all over the fat side of the lamb. Insert one half garlic clove deep into each slit.
Mix together olive oil, herbs, salt and pepper to make a rub for the meat. Rub all sides with the mixture and let sit at room temperature for 30-40 minutes. Preheat oven to 350°F (for shoulder, use 325°F.)
Roast lamb leg on a rack about 2 1/2 to 3 hours until thermometer reaches 135°F (medium-rare), 140°F (medium), or 150°F (medium-well.) (Shoulder will take about 4 hours)
Remove from oven, place on a cutting board and tent with foil. Set aside.
Mix flour in coffee until smooth.
Skim most of the fat from the drippings in the pan, add jelly, and heat the pan over medium-low heat. When the jelly melts completely, add coffee mixture and stir constantly for one minute or until slightly thickened.
Slice lamb and serve with sauce.
