One thing that has always surprised — and, frankly, disappointed — me about American restaurant culture is our unwavering devotion to beef, often at the expense of other truly exciting options. In this country, beef is king. Regardless of cuisine, region or setting, beef dishes almost always top the popularity charts. From a beautifully marbled ribeye in a classic steakhouse to slow-roasted beef at a buffet, to a burger eaten behind the wheel, nothing quite rivals its dominance.
But as my own palate broadened over the years, I discovered an alternative that felt both sophisticated and slightly rebellious: lamb.
Around the world — particularly throughout the Middle East and the Mediterranean — lamb is not a novelty; it’s a staple. Yet I’m continually surprised how many people here either avoid it or have never tried it at all. My goal today is simple: to create a few converts.
My love affair with lamb began years ago when I performed tableside cooking in an upscale dining room. We served a spectacular rack of lamb coated in seasoned breadcrumbs and mustard, carved and plated right before the guest. It was theatrical and elegant, the kind of dish that makes neighboring tables pause mid-conversation.
Later, I came to appreciate lamb chops on the grill — whether traditional rib chops or a rack divided into double-bone portions. Properly seasoned and cooked to the right temperature, grilled lamb is deeply flavorful and satisfying.
But perhaps the most extraordinary expression of lamb doesn’t involve a pristine rack or elegant chops. It comes from a humbler source: the shank. Tough, sinewy and bone-in, the lamb shank is the sort of cut that demands patience. Transforming it into something magnificent requires two things — time and liquid — through the magic of braising.
Heartland Heritage Farms Lamb Shank
Many readers are already familiar with braising as the gold standard for brisket. The same principle applies here. A larger cut of meat, often rich with connective tissue and bone, is partially submerged in wine, broth, water or a combination thereof, then cooked slowly for hours. As it simmers gently, the collagen breaks down and the meat softens into something almost impossibly tender. Done properly, it quite literally melts in your mouth.
At Café Mediterranean in Hyde Park, they understand this process intimately. Lamb appears on their menu in several appealing forms, but the standout for me is their Heartland Heritage Farms Lamb Shank.
This beautifully braised dish arrives infused with rosemary, tomatoes and a chorus of Mediterranean herbs and spices. The meat is fork-tender, deeply savory and perfectly balanced by its accompanying slow-roasted vegetables and rice. It is rustic yet refined — hearty without being heavy-handed.
Turkish Bread
I’ve cooked lamb shank at home. I’ve enjoyed it in restaurants and at friends’ tables. Yet the version at Café Mediterranean may well be the best I’ve encountered. The flavors are layered, the texture flawless and the overall presentation quietly confident.
It’s worth noting that braised lamb shank is not a light undertaking. This is not a quick Tuesday night bite. It’s the kind of dish you order when you’re in the mood for something substantial and memorable — much like a special steak dinner. You commit to it, and it rewards you.
If you appreciate the richness of quality meat and the tenderness of a well-braised brisket, I encourage you to give lamb shank a try. It may very well reshape your view of this often-overlooked delicacy. And I recommend you experience it at Café Mediterranean, where the last bite lingers long after it’s gone.
