In my travels, one of the trips featured a boat ride (a sea-going ship actually) from Istanbul to Athens via ports of call through the Cyclades isles of the Aegean Sea. While the trip focused on archeological sites dating back ten millennia and more, one of the side benefits of such travel was the chance to enjoy the cuisine of the locals. We spent three days in Istanbul at the start, and much of that time we were on our own for lunch and dinner meals. Our hotel was a two-minute trek from several “walking” streets where motor-powered vehicles were prohibited. Those streets were packed with a scramble of foot traffic searching out small shops and al fresco cafes — but mostly cafes. Myriad cafes catered to the city’s residents, the locals, so the food was as Turkish as one may find anywhere. Kebabs, yes; lamb dishes, for sure; curries, grape-leaf appetizers, hummus, olives, pita bread, all were in evidence in just about any cafe one chose.
A sampler of chilled appetizers, including hummus, eggplant in sauce, baba ganoush, and spicy vegetables
The food in those cafes was marvelous everywhere we stopped to eat. To this day, almost ten years in the past, the aromas and the tastes of some dishes still linger in the mind. But we who enjoyed those cafes of Istanbul can refresh the sensual experiences of that time by a trip to Artemis Mediterranean Bistro in Montgomery. That is because Mehmet Coskum, owner/operator/often chef of Artemis, is a native Turk who learned his craft in the very city of Istanbul.
The stew of okra and chicken, served with rice
One of the dishes that brings me back to the tastes of Turkey is the appetizer sampler, which features several of the staples found in those halcyon Turkish cafes. Actually, at Artemis, Jewish diners-out may pick from an array of chilled appetizers that are brought to table four to a sampler platter (see photo). In the platter shown are my favorites, starting with the hummus (clockwise at approximately the 12-to-3 position), which is house-made fresh daily, and drizzled with EVOO before serving. Next is the eggplant in sauce (3-to-6). It’s to die for — the flavor, the texture, and with the pita, delicious and so Middle Eastern. If possible, my sense is the Artemis version of this Turkish delight is even better than that we had in Turkey. If you enjoy eggplant, I’m betting you will go nuts over this tasty appetizer. Next in the 6-to-9 clock slot is Coskum’s baba ganoush, which is a somewhat chunky puree of roasted eggplant mixed with tahini, garlic, olive oil and lemon juice. Again, simply scrumptious! The last entry on this platter, at 9-to-noon, is ezme, Turkish for spicy chopped vegetables with chopped walnuts. This appetizer is common in Turkey and the spice adds a bit of zip to the veggies. The appetizer sampler is served with warm pita bread wedges for dipping and scooping. I’m betting you’ll dip and scoop your way to an empty, all but spotless platter, as we always do.
The chocolate almond pudding
There are other chilled appetizers Jewish diners may wish to choose since there are nine on the menu. We at Dining Out have tried them all, and there is not a loser in the bunch. Go for it.
Now let’s have an entree — what do you say? There are several that rank in my favorites category. Since we have already had eggplant in sauce and baba ganoush, I’ll pass on my go-to dish, stuffed eggplant. Also, we’ll pass on the cabbage rolls, though it’s undeniable those comfort foods appeal to my “home” and “like grandma” style of eating. Hard to say no to either. However, there are other dishes on the Artemis menu that are delicious and provide a tasty reminder of those cafe strewn streets of Istanbul. One is the okra stew with chicken, which has a back-story, according to Coskum. “It’s a tomato-based chicken dish, with baby okra — from Turkey. It’s hard to find these okra; they have a special texture and taste. In Turkey, you can get them. But here, they are not available. For a long time, I have looked for them, but nobody has them. These come from Turkey (in jars), and I buy them when I can so I will be able to make this dish.”
My sense is that Jewish diners who try this stew of okra and chicken will love it. Along with the special baby okra, the entree features chunks of chicken white meat from breasts sauteed in olive oil. The chicken and okra are accented with green and red peppers, onions, and garlic in tomato sauce. Again, think comfort food like grandma used to make. It’s wholesome, hearty, tasty, and just right for chilly autumn evenings. If you still have room, finish with a crock of chocolate almond pudding or rice pudding for the table. Perfect!
See you at Artemis Mediterranean Bistro!
