Complexity of Indian cuisine adds to its appeal, variety

The United States is often referred to in ethnic terms as a melting pot, because the populous of this expansive country is a mix for sure. Yours truly had a college history professor who used the term “tossed salad” as a more apt descriptor for the American demographic. His contention was that ethnic groups — Italians, Germans, Irish, Slavs, Jews, what-have-you — were distinct entities that retained ethnicity, while mixed in as part of the whole. That same analogy may be true of Indian food. The question is one of influence, and the influence often is laid at the feet of that pesky British Empire in the 18th century.

In historical annals, it was 1757, almost 20 years before our own American Revolutionary War began, that the Brits showed up on India’s doorstep, cannons and muskets bristling with imperial intent. John Bull’s use of brute force was meant to open India to more substantial trade with England, while building a more modern society for the Indians. Lopsided though that equation might have been, part of the trade was the introduction of meat, butter and cream to a cuisine that used none of those prior to the British arrival. Or so the Brits would have us believe. India was largely agricultural, especially in the north, and thus largely vegetarian with a modest interest of seafood, as the story goes. 

According to leaders of Indian restaurants in our fair city, the history of all this ingredient business is more complex. In fact, the founders of Ambar India, an eatery which has been a cornerstone of India’s exotic cuisine for more than 30 years now, say: “Not so! Actually, the cuisine of Northern India was heavily influenced by Central Asia decades before the British came to that region. Central Asians were meat-eaters, and before those peoples came on the scene, Indian cuisine was primarily vegetarian. Not many animal products at all.” 

Wherever the impetus, the result is an Indian cuisine with an ancient heritage of animal protein in the diet. That protein was derived almost exclusively from lamb, chicken and seafood. Consumption of beef is taboo for religious reasons, and pork, while not avoided entirely, is more loosely placed in the same forbidden category. So, the butter and cream? They came from those same Central Asian influences that brought a greater emphasis on animal protein, according to local Indian restaurant sources. 

“What the British did was send the tastes of India around the world,” say the folks at Ambar. In the years after 1757, Britian’s colonial empire spread far and wide, with Englishmen proudly proclaiming that the sun never set on the British Empire. While all this was happening, Brits doing stints in India developed a taste for Indian cuisine, and as the story goes, took those tastes to outposts the world over, including the British Isles. 

So, just maybe today’s Jewish diners-out enjoy Indian cuisine because of the busybody nature of the British Empire of yore. However it arrived here, and from wherever came the influences of animal protein, cream, and butter on the cuisine, much of Indian food lends itself to kosher-style dining. 

For Jewish diners-out who want to eat kosher style, Indian cuisine is a good choice. Restaurants such as Kanak India in Montgomery, Ambar India in Clifton, and Baba India in Oakley have a variety of vegetarian dishes that border on comfort food for me. Some of the most ordered ones are: saag paneer, a flavorful combination of homemade cheese cubes cooked with spinach and cream; aloo choley, a dish of chickpeas and potatoes prepared in North Indian style; and dal makhana, an entrée of lentils in cream, prepared with a touch of spices that provide flavor more than heat. Add to these a personal favorite of mine, the bhartha, which is eggplant cooked with other vegetables and mildly seasoned with an Indian spice/herb medley. All good, all kosher-style.

Jewish diners will find many entrée dishes that feature chicken, along with the tandoori oven dishes. Chicken curry is among the most ordered of all the entrée items, and especially among ethnic Indians, according to management at Ambar. The chicken is cooked in a mildly spicy sauce that is delicious with nan made in the tandoori oven. Another crowd favorite is the chicken masala, which features par-broiled chicken that then is cooked with a savory tomato, onion, and bell pepper medley. 

See you at an Indian eatery near you!