For delicious Italian food, you could take a trip to Italy. Short of that, you could satisfy your craving for Italian cuisine by taking a trip to a Little Italy in U.S. cities the likes of New York, Boston or Philly. Each has outstanding neighborhoods dotted with mom-and-pop Italian eateries in settings that bring to mind the restaurant scene from “The Godfather.” Remember? You could go to those extremes. But then, you could find that bit of Italy right here in Cincinnati — the distinctive and inviting aromas, the ambiance of the Italian zeitgeist, the family-style atmosphere, and most importantly, the tasty, marvelous cuisine — at Buca di Beppo.
You’ll find eggplant parmesan similar to this at Buca di Beppo
Buca di Beppo is located in the Rookwood complex, off Edmondson Road in Norwood, near both Edwards and Madison Roads. You’ll know you are there when you see the impressive bulb-strewn signage that marks the spot.
Here’s what management of this national chain has to say about its eateries: “Like Little Italy in the ‘50s, Buca di Beppo celebrates the hearty cooking of Southern Italy (lots of red sauce dishes!). It’s a place where you can smell the homemade marinara sauce before you reach the door. Here, you are surrounded by kitchy entertaining décor that makes everyone feel at home. Where wine flows from the jug, and laughter often drowns out the music. Dishes go straight from the kitchen to the middle of your table — family-style. Share bountiful portions of the classic classics…we invite you to share in the celebration at Buca di Beppo. Ciao!”
A margarita pizza, piping hot from the oven
Bellissimo! Having been to both Italy and to a few Little Italy locations here in the states (all three of the above mentioned, actually), you could look at me as the voice of experience. That “voice” is amplified by having Italian maternal grandparents, and a grandma in that set of two for whom Italian cuisine was both a passion and avocation. She grew and canned her own tomatoes and canned her own red sauce, for example. Pasta fagioli, homemade cheese ravioli, beef braciola, Sicilian-style pizza — she made them all. Hers were dishes that would bring you back for seconds and even thirds. The woman could cook! What can I say?
So, what about Buca di Beppo? Well, first is the ambiance. Pictures that harken to the Old Country and a mid-century time and place now solidly in the rear-view mirror. Italian décor including wall murals, red-and-white checked tablecloths, and wine by the jug give a sense of Italian heritage. The emphasis is on family-style dining. Here’s what the bosses say: “At Buca di Beppo everyone is part of the famiglia and our food is the star of the show! Our menu of classic Italian food is inspired by the cuisine enjoyed by Italian Americans for generations. Delicious dishes with roots in the villages throughout Italy are served just the way Italian American families enjoy at home — family-style!”
A family-style meal service
When you go to Buca di Beppo, ordering family-style is the only way to go. In this case, family-style means ordering a “small” portion of a dish, say spaghetti marinara, which will generously serve three people, or a large order, which will serve five people. Really, the larger the crowd at your table, the more options you have, giving the chance for each person to try a little bit of this and a little bit of that.
Spaghetti marinara, a dish that is among Italian-American favorites, and a Buca di Beppo specialty
On a recent trip to Buca di Beppo, we were a party of eight, with a few no-frills, borderline picky eaters in the group. So, we ordered spaghetti marinara for five, baked ziti for five, and eggplant parmesan for five, along with a Caesar salad for five. Kids portions also were available, but since we had no little ones with us, the main portions were the basis for the meal. Consensus was that the food was very good, there was plenty of it, and nobody went away hungry. In fact, the opposite turned out to be true, with most saying they had eaten much too much.
For me, trying some of everything is fun, but my favorite was the eggplant parmesan (for which I lobbied), made with fresh basil and lots of mozzarella cheese. Great flavor and the eggplant is prepared in a way that allows the texture and taste to come through even with the cheese, breading and all the rest. Many times, with this classic dish, the cheese and sauce overwhelm the taste of the eggplant, and that is a shame.
See you at Buca di Beppo!
